People “come” to modeling in different ways. Someone saw the diorama and liked it, someone heard it and decided to try it. But whichever way you come up with the idea of ​​creating thumbnails, you need to know where to start.

How to choose a model?

The most difficult thing is to determine where you will start your thorny path into the world of modeling. Personally, my experience began with the squadron battleship Borodino 1:350 of the Zvezda company. But, I would not advise you to start with such difficult models. Without experience, it is very difficult to immediately carry out such a global project with high quality. But you want to assemble well, beautifully and not spoil the model. It is better to start with something easier - for example, or a motorcycle.

If you live in a metropolis, you can always visit a model shop and consult with a competent salesperson who will help you choose. If you live in a small town, then you will not find such a store.

You can look at modeling kits in the children's world, but no one there will definitely advise or tell you anything.

The Internet will help a lot. It is worth chatting with the pros on blogs, although they are not always as friendly as we would like.

An excellent option is an online store. For example, LIFE-HOBBY is one of the best and the one for which I am writing this article. You can study the assortment in detail, and then contact the administrator by e-mail or phone, who will help you make a choice, advise paints, glue and related necessary tools.

Required Tools

1. Knife. To separate parts from the sprues on which they are fixed, it is better to use a clerical knife. Small details can bounce on the floor and get lost when cutting, so it's best to cover them with your finger.
2. Files. After the part is cut off from the sprue, traces may remain on it, which will interfere with high-quality gluing. Such places are best cleaned with a file or fine sandpaper. I prefer to use a set of needle files. They are comfortable to hold, they are of different shapes - wide, narrow, with ledges - which will help to clean the part without much difficulty.
3. Tweezers. In order to make it convenient to take and stick small parts, you will need tweezers.
4. Glue. From my own experience, it became clear that using the "Moment" is not worth it. It sticks together quickly, but over time, its structure disintegrates, which leads to the collapse of the model. Everything has to be redone. Best to use. True, sometimes you have to hold back the parts for the hitch a little longer.
5. Paints. If you decide that you will paint your model, then you need to immediately take paints when buying a model. Manufacturers on the box or in the instructions describe in detail what paints are needed and for what. It is necessary to study the instructions in order to understand which parts need to be painted before gluing, because. once pasted, it will be impossible to reach them with a brush.
6. Brushes. For coloring you will need brushes. I prefer natural ones from squirrels or ponies. They lose less hair and last longer. For painting, you will need equipment - for small details, No. 4 - 6 - for large surfaces. For glue, it is convenient to use a flat brush with artificial bristles No. 2 or 3. After work, do not forget to rinse the brushes.

Collect and improve your skills. Modeling is a very exciting activity not only for yourself, but for the whole family.

Glue for models

Model stores offer a fairly large assortment of glue for models from different manufacturers and for different types of work. At first, it is quite difficult for a beginner to understand this diversity. I hope this article, based on personal experience, will be useful to beginner modeling enthusiasts.

As a rule, everyone first buys glue for the Zvezda models. This glue has two advantages: it is available in all model stores and costs a penny. This is where the pluses end and after a very short time the glue from the bottle is spilled at best on the table, at worst - on the carpet, because. the shape of the bottle is designed just for this. In general, try it - you will not like it. :)

Adhesive for models Tamiya cement extra thin with the smell of lemon

This glue for models is our everything! Excellent for gluing PS-plastic from which models are made, leaves almost no marks on the surface of the model. The lid is equipped with a brush, which is convenient to apply glue to the surfaces to be glued. The bottle is very stable, you can't accidentally turn it over.

Glue can be applied to the joints of the parts before gluing, or first join the parts and then just gently apply a small amount of glue to the joint. Due to its good fluidity, the adhesive itself will spread over the joint and reliably wet the surfaces to be glued. All in all, they are a pleasure to work with!

Tamiya has two types of this glue, lemon scented (actually, it smells more like orange) and traditional (green label). I chose scented glue (it is a little more expensive) so as not to cause discomfort to my household.

As practice shows, this amount of glue is enough for a very long time, the consumption is minimal. Glue is very economical.

Adhesive for models Tamiya cement with the smell of lemon

It has a thicker consistency and the brush is thicker. For other characteristics, the same high-quality glue.

I use it in cases where it is necessary to practically "weld" one part to another. Although, liquid glue does the job just as well.

I read somewhere on the forums that this glue can be diluted and get the exact same liquid glue as Tamiya Extra Thin, but I forgot how. In the same way, there is an analogue of glue without fragrance.

Cyanoacrylate adhesive

Cyanoacrylic glue Super Moment. 3 gr.

It is sold in any supermarket in 3g packs and under different brands. Used when you need to glue parts made of tin, photo-etched or any other materials other than model plastic. For example, all tin parts were glued together with this glue. In model online stores, there is a specialized glue for models based on cyanoacrylate. In fact, this is the same glue from the supermarket, only several times more expensive, I see no reason to buy it.

Super glue sets instantly, which in our case is a disadvantage, because. it is impossible to correct the location of the parts to be glued after they are connected. The part glued with this adhesive can be easily peeled off if you apply a certain amount of force, so you need to be careful.

For convenience, I use an empty pill box. I squeeze a drop of glue into the “cup” and apply it to the surface to be glued with a simple toothpick. It turns out very neat and economical.

"Palette and brush" for super glue

It is important to remember that cyanoacrylate vapors are quite toxic and work with him better in a ventilated area. Well, try to keep your nose away from the place of gluing, which does not always work :)

Glue "Moment"

Universal glue Moment

"Moment" is convenient to glue large parts made of tin to plastic. Before gluing, you need to apply glue on both parts with a thin layer, wait a while, and then press them together. It is convenient in that you can adjust the position of the parts for some time after gluing, excess glue is easily peeled off. The area to be bonded must be allowed to dry.

Denis Demin, AllModels channel, recommends diluting Moment glue with a solvent to obtain a more liquid consistency, which gives greater ease of use.

Glue moment crystal

Transparent glue Moment "Crystal"

I think to try it as a model glue for gluing transparent parts. Conducted an experiment on a transparent sprue. So far, not very impressive: air bubbles form in the drop and the glue dissolves the plastic a little.

Experiment with glue "Crystal"

Perhaps with a thinner layer of glue, the result will be better.

PVA

PVA glue is available at any supermarket or office supply store. In its original form - an opaque white liquid. But, when dry, it becomes almost transparent. The degree of transparency, as I understand it, depends on the cleaning of the glue. In general, most specialized transparent model glue is well-cleaned PVA. In the photo below you can see the degree of transparency of the PVA glue after drying.

Experiment with PVA glue

In fact, "Futura" is a liquid for polishing floors, but is used in modeling as a very fluid and opaque varnish. You can read more about "Futura" at this link. But in some cases it can also be used for gluing transparent parts. The place of gluing must be dried during the day.

There are certain difficulties in buying this "miracle liquid" in Russia, but I found a wonderful online store where you can buy Futura in 120 or 35 ml packaging. It may not be available, but the guys carry it. Keep track of deliveries. I recommend!

How to use model glue correctly

Do not pour a lot of liquid glue into the joint of parts, the result will not get better, but the likelihood that it will flow under the fingers or tweezers with which you hold the part, and they will leave an annoying imprint on the plastic, increases greatly.

If you accidentally "blurt" glue on the model, in no case try to erase it you'll only make it worse! It is better to let it dry well, and then gently sand the place where the glue got in, in this case the “destruction” will be minimal.

Make sure that liquid glue does not flow under the masking tape., he loves it and as a result, when you remove the tape, a surprise and a section of “floated” plastic will await you.

The place of gluing with super-glue is quite fragile. A little effort and the part flies off. Be careful. It is desirable to degrease the place of gluing, it will hold much better.

Let the Futura bonding area dry for at least 12 hours. And even after that, the result will not be the same as if we glued it with ordinary model glue.

I like both scenarios in this picture :)

In this article about glue for models, I just share my modest experience and will be glad for any comments and additions. Write comments!

Have you decided to get into modeling, but don't even know where to start? In this article, we will try to talk about the key nuances of the process, as well as give some tips for beginners that should be refreshed in memory and professionals. First of all, we note that modeling requires enormous effort and a lot of time. To hastily assemble models means to turn them from potentially perfect products into a pitiful semblance of a cheap Chinese fake. If you are ready to work hard to create a real work of art - welcome to the world of modeling! So let's get started.

Where does modeling start?

Of course, with the purchase of the model itself. The catalog of our store contains a lot of kits for beginners and professional modellers. If you don't understand anything about military equipment - choose a model that you just like and seem the easiest for the first assembly. If you are fond of military equipment and are well versed in it, you will surely find in the catalog exactly the model that you have always dreamed of seeing in your collection. If the model of the desired equipment is not available - contact the consultant, it is quite possible that it will be delivered to you on an individual order.

So, the model is selected - it's time to start choosing tools. What will we need? Absolutely everything that is sold in the store, but it is often not possible to buy everything at once, and to assemble one model you may not need the tools that are needed when assembling another. There is a joke among modellers: “Choose tools intuitively, you will forget to buy the most important thing anyway.” Therefore, we will draw your attention only to the key and most necessary tools and materials.

The first thing that every modeler should buy is glue, and professional glue. Superglue and PVA will definitely not work. It is advisable to purchase several glues at once in order to learn to understand the difference between them already in the process of assembling the first model - it is better to take a second, helium and classic model glue. Next, we get a primer, a file, sandpaper (both with large and with the finest grains). Now pay attention to paints and enamels - for starters, you can buy colors that match the scheme of your model. However, in the future you will need absolutely all the paints and enamels presented in our catalog, you can be sure of this.

Next, we move on to one of the main tools - these are brushes. From the very beginning, it’s worth starting experiments, so immediately purchase a dozen brushes of different sizes, types, shapes and manufacturers. It may be more convenient for you to paint with an airbrush (sprayer) - if you have money, you can also purchase it. Don't forget to buy an airbrush compressor. If you are not afraid of expenses - purchase all materials in the maximum variety. A novice modeller, like no one else, should experiment and form his own style of assembly, priming, painting.

Getting to know the model

As soon as you brought the model home, get ready for one of the most pleasant moments and hurry to lay out all the details on the table in front of you. It is at this time that you can plunge headlong into the wonderful world of modeling and feel all its charm. Carefully consider all the details presented, understand how creative, complex and at the same time exciting the assembly process will be. It is very important that in the process of getting acquainted with the details you correctly assess the front of the upcoming work.

You are now completely ready to assemble your first model. Prepare the work surface, separate the parts from the sprues. Try to attach several parts to each other. Understand how difficult this process will be, feel its charm. Perhaps this is where it is worth finishing the first acquaintance with the model - put the parts in a box and put it aside. It's time to start professional training and create a full-fledged work surface and modeler's workplace.

We create a workplace

Assembling a good model requires proper preparation of the workplace. It is desirable to have, if not a separate office, then a separate desktop. You can convert the old workplace or desk. To do this, remove everything unnecessary from the surface and from the boxes, from now on you will only be engaged in assembling models. Believe me, you will have to store it in the table and on it, spend a lot of free time here, because it is extremely inconvenient to shift things and tools from place to place.

A special rug for modellers is spread on the table. If possible, give preference to A1 format material. We already lay out all the necessary tools on it. Remember that you are creating your own workplace, therefore you can independently determine their sequence, degree of significance and, in accordance with these parameters, place them on the table in any order. Next, we arrange paints, brushes and other materials-tools.

Getting ready to assemble

Preparing for the assembly in our case is the need to understand that many things that you thoughtlessly threw away before will surely be needed by you from now on. First of all, start collecting on an industrial scale all kinds of wires and their trimmings, pieces of plastic, sticks, glass jars and even caps from beer and vodka bottles. Do not be surprised - in the future it will be very convenient to use them to create a palette of colors.

At the same time, let me prepare you a little psychologically. The fact is that very soon you will acquire a truly exciting hobby that will take up the lion's share of your free time. At the same time, most friends and family, for objective reasons, will not quite understand your passion for creating models. Try not to conflict with them and pay enough attention to family and friends. Believe me, this hobby can be successfully combined with the opportunity to be a great son, friend, brother, husband, dad and colleague.

Purchasing an aftermarket

We suggest you sit down at the table again and study the features of the set you purchased. Look carefully at the instructions and at the details laid out in front of you. You may well find, and most certainly will, that many of them are either inaccurate, not detailed enough, or simply missing from the set. That is why we suggest purchasing an additional detailing kit (cockpit, photo-etched) in advance.

Working with aftermaket

Take a close look at the photo-etch kit you purchased and decide which parts you will need to fabricate yourself. We will not delve into the assembly process - there is an instruction for this, moreover, the features of creating each new model are individual. Instead, let's note a few key nuances of the work that a beginner should definitely take into account and which a professional should not forget about. We include the following points:

• Careful attitude to instructions. Following it is the key to successful assembly of the model;
• Multiple check. Before work, look at how the details fit on the drawings. If there are deficiencies, it is recommended to correct them immediately;
• Remember the numbering. When cutting off parts from the sprue, especially small elements, try to remember their numbering for sure, so as not to get confused in the future;
• Detail the interior elements. Many modellers advise photographing the interior of a structure prior to its final assembly;
• Be careful with small details, it is almost impossible to find them on the floor - use boxes and drawers for storage;
• Don't be afraid to spend time fixing a detail with defects visible to you - it will be much more difficult to fix an already assembled model;
• Do not be afraid of damage to the jointing during the grinding process., for example, primers - boldly polish the surface, achieving its ideal state;
• Experiment with tools: remember that many household items can be useful in modeling.

Remember also that the materials you use, paints, varnishes and enamels are completely safe for human health. The only thing to be wary of is paints with very pungent odors. These include, for example, nitro paints. They are recommended to be used only when the hood is running, and in rooms where small children have access, they are usually not used at all.

Model painting features

Painting a model is a creative and at the same time complex process from a technical point of view. We have already described it in one of the articles posted on our website, so we will only note the moments unknown to you.

Firstly, trust the manufacturers, but always check them. On various forums, you can find messages about the discrepancy between the colors indicated by the manufacturer and the real shades of technology. Therefore, do not be too lazy to check with the original and choose the color scheme yourself.

Secondly, pay special attention to the choice of coloring option - some of them are presented in the instructions, some you will have to search on the Internet yourself. Make a choice in favor of the most complex drawing - only in this case you will be able to win the first "respect" in the image of a modeler.

Third, always use a primer (of course, if you do not work with nitro paints). It will help not only securely fasten the surface of the model and the layer of paint and varnish material, but also smooth out roughness, numerous irregularities and other flaws.

Fourth, fix the parts to be painted on the holders and never touch them with your hands - one awkward movement and all the work will have to be done from the very beginning.

Conclusion

Don't be afraid to experiment. We have to repeat this over and over again. Modeling is a combination of creativity and scrupulous study of instructions. Only in the process of assembling models do you gain invaluable experience, which is reflected in your technique and allows you to form its individual style. Listen to the advice of experienced modellers, but always check them in practice - no one can be considered the ultimate truth. Be creative, learn from your mistakes and create real masterpieces. And we, for our part, are happy to help you with wonderful models and tools of the highest quality, presented in an incredibly wide range.

What should I start with? I think for a start it is worth understanding the main factors of fast and at the same time high-quality assembly.

1. For assembly, you should choose a high-quality model with good docking and detailing out of the box.
2. You need to use the right chemistry, with a short drying time.
3. It is necessary to start the assembly with a clear understanding of the amount of work and alterations, so as not to get bogged down in a lot of improvements, often made “for the soul”, but little noticeable on the final result.
4. It is important to follow the assembly sequence, breaking the model into subassemblies, so that in the process you do not have to constantly deal with different things.

Let's dwell on each of the points in more detail.

If you want to quickly build a model, you should not take something complex or of poor quality for assembly. A large number of parts or the need to process every detail and joint will nullify all attempts to quickly get the finished result. So no ships, BTTs with super-details, LND models and budget sets of vehicles from the ARC, VE and others.

But this does not mean that the choice of models will be small. New models from , various models from - all this can be taken for quick assembly. The scale can be anything, except perhaps all sorts of large scales, like 1/32 for aviation or 1/16 for BTT - not the best choice) for example, in a couple of days off, you can safely build an excellent Yak-3 in 1/48 or a new T-34/85 in 1/35 or 1/72 of Zvezda, I-16 or Yak-52 in 1/48 of the ARC, almost any model from Tamiya in 1/35 or 1/48, etc. The main thing is that the model does not have a lot of details, there was a good fit and good detailing. There are many such models on the market today. And to understand what is in the box, it is best to use the search on the net and look at the reviews on the model and its construction.

IL-2 from Tamiya in 1/48 scale assembled in three days of work in the evenings

The basis of a qualitative result is the right choice of chemistry. So that the construction of the model is not interrupted by a long wait for the glue, putty and paint to dry, you need to choose the right consumables.

The usual model glue, which is ordinary, which dries pretty quickly. But such glue dries completely for a long time, and the seams glued with it between large parts can easily shrink over time, which is critical when assembling the model quickly. So it is worth using such glue where the seam passes through the real joint of the parts and does not require sealing. Well, for attaching various small parts.

Tamiya's Super Liquid Glue is the best choice for working on most small to medium parts.

For docking and at the same time for sealing seams on large parts, it is best suited. And - with In this case, the glue will serve as both glue and putty. And the activator will allow you to achieve instant drying of the glue, which also does not shrink. That is, 30 seconds after gluing, the part can already be safely processed, sanded, etc. Of course, when working with such glue, it is worth considering the fact that it glues the parts instantly, and when it dries, it becomes harder than plastic and requires sanding from 600 numbers.

It is also convenient to glue various small parts that require accurate and fast positioning on super glue with an activator.

Cyanoacrylate glue - the best glue and putty for quick assembly

There will also be a place. Applied in a thin layer, it dries in about 30 minutes and allows you to edit small surface jambs, for example, scratches, small cavities on super glue, etc. Shrinkage is not terrible here, because the layer will be thin.

Tamiya's White Finish Putty is a good choice for quickly fixing small blemishes on the model's surface.

When assembling the IL-2 model, the fuselage was glued with super glue, and small flaws along the junction of its halves were filled with white putty from Tamiya

It is also better not to refuse the use of a primer. Habitual model primers dry out “tack free” in 10-15 minutes and after half an hour you can safely paint over them. And to show the surface of the model before painting and improve the adhesion of the paint will never be superfluous. Nitro primer from or Hansa would be the best choice.

Primer from Tamiya is a good choice in any, including fast construction

But the paint is best to choose acrylic, water-based. That is, acrylic from Vallejo, Zip, Pacific88, Master Acrylic, . All of these paints have a fast drying time and allow you to apply colors with minimal drying time. Yes, the other side of the coin is the frequent sticking of paint on the airbrush needle, but this can be combated by adding a drying retarder to the paint and mechanically cleaning the tip of the needle. Well, it goes without saying that you should immediately take ready-made colors so as not to mess around with mixing paints.

Ready set of paints from MIG. With it, you can easily apply camouflage to a model of a German aircraft in one evening.

After applying the paint, it is enough to wait 30 minutes before applying masks. Of course, you should be careful, but in general, even water-based acrylic holds well on a primed surface.

The model is painted in the base color (acrylic SPTA), camouflage masks from Tesa tape are applied

Then the second color of camouflage is blown out and after the paint has dried, after a few minutes the masks are removed. Applying camouflage to the top of the Su-2 took less than an hour, including waiting for the paint to dry.

The longest drying time is required for glossy varnish, which is applied under decals and washes. The most easy-to-work glossy varnishes, such as

So, you have decided to get into modeling, but have a very vague idea (or no idea at all) about what it is, where to start and what it generally takes. In this short article, I will try to describe the whole process of creating good, high-quality models in an intelligible and understandable way for each reader.

Please note that no matter how strange some steps of this guide may seem to you, you still cannot miss them, otherwise the model will turn out to be bad, incorrect. While reading the article, you may come across unfamiliar words - I will not compile a list of terms and describe their meaning - just rummage on the Internet. We will study on the principles of aircraft modeling, which are also suitable for other areas. The basics of modeling are the same for everyone. So!

Chapter 1 - Where to start?

Of course, with the acquisition of the model itself. The most convenient place to buy a model, as well as accessories needed for its assembly, is a model store. You will first have to find out where this one is located in your city, and go there.
In the model store you will see a large number (I hope you get to a good model store) boxes with beautiful pictures. If you do not understand anything in military equipment - choose the one that you like the most. And if you understand, then you will probably find the model that you have wanted to see on your shelf all your life. I wrote "probably" because, most likely, you will not find just such a model. And if you ask the seller about the reasons for its absence, you will hear one of three: the first - “there is no such model now, come back in a couple of months”, the second - “the model was, but discontinued and will not go on sale again”, the third - “ such a model is not produced at all by any, even the most miserable company.

Well, you'll have to choose something else. Have you chosen? Great, let's move on to the next item - buying a tool. You can choose the tool completely intuitively. The fact is that in reality, to assemble the model, you absolutely need absolutely all the tools sold in the model store, but you shouldn’t buy everything, because when you start assembling, you will still understand that you still didn’t buy the most important tool due to its absence in the store and you will have to make it yourself. But more on that later.

Most importantly - do not forget to buy glue - the model cannot be assembled only with the help of a moment and PVA lying around in your box, but do not worry, they will come in handy. I advise you to buy several adhesives at once - the usual model, second, helium second ... in general, choose what is closer to your heart. Don't forget to buy some putties, needle files, sandpaper... Then go to the paint shelf. Here the situation is no better than with the tool. You need ALL the paints sold in the store again, but if you drive to the store on your own and realize that you simply cannot take the entire counter home, buy at least all the base colors, as well as those indicated in the assembly instructions your model.

Choose 15 brushes for yourself (if the store does not have 15 brushes of different sizes, you can also buy brushes of the same size, but from different manufacturers). Now you can move away from the counter with paints. In fact, to paint the model, you still need to buy an airbrush with a compressor, but you can not hurry yet. Until the moment when they are useful to you, you will find yourself in a model store more than once.

Now a very important tip: while in a model store, under no pretext, do not consider how much money you will have to spend. You NEED to buy it anyway - why spoil your mood in advance? Remember? Great, now go back to the models shelf and choose another model for yourself (why - you will understand when you become a really experienced modeller). Now go to the checkout and pay for your purchases. If you do not have enough money - do not try to leave something from the selected product. It’s better to call your wife and ask him to urgently bring the money set aside for the purchase of a refrigerator (do not regret it, you still won’t buy a refrigerator tomorrow and you can always put it off again, and you will have to assemble the model in the near future).

Chapter 2 - Building the Model

Based on the fact that you did everything correctly according to the first chapter, I can assume that you are already at home and ready to proceed with the assembly of the model. The first thing you need to do is take everything out of the box and carefully examine all its contents. You need to spend at least 15 minutes on this process. What is it for? Doesn't really matter - just look and enjoy. After you finish looking, put everything in a box, close it, find someone in the apartment (preferably a relative) and repeat the procedure with him. It is advisable to try to interest a person, but if you fail, it doesn’t matter either - just show him the contents of the box, put everything back and leave.

Note: if there is no one in the apartment except you, then the second time you will have to look at the contents alone, but do not miss this important step in building the model.

Now take everything out of the box again, find sprues, on which there are halves of the fuselage and wings. Find in your purchases such a tool with which these parts can be separated from the sprues. Separate and fold the fuselage halves together. Consider this design for 5 minutes, then attach wings to it. Uncomfortable to hold? Try!

You can’t even pull a fish out of a pond without difficulty, and this saying fits perfectly for modeling. Now find something to temporarily fix your structure, such as tape. Wind all the details together, put on the table and admire a little more. Now disassemble everything in its original position and put it in a box. Close the box and set it aside.

Chapter 3 - Workplace

To assemble a good model, you need to properly prepare the workplace. To do this, you will have to allocate a separate table (the more - the better). If you do not have an extra table, or there is nowhere to put it, you will have to convert your workplace (whatever it was intended for before) into a modeller's workplace. Suppose we are talking about a desk. If possible, remove from it everything that cannot be useful for assembling models in any way and try to come to terms with the idea that you will have to write in the kitchen or somewhere else - it is not convenient to remove all model accessories from the table every time, especially since assembling models should take up most of your time.

Lay a special model "mat" on the table. Oh yes, I forgot to add it to the list of necessary purchases in the model store, well, it doesn’t matter, order it right now via the Internet. If you don't know what it looks like, just look through the entire catalog of the online store, and when you see it, you will immediately understand what it is about. To simplify the search, I’ll still hint - it’s green and beautiful. The main thing is to buy a larger rug, preferably A2 or even better A1! But suppose that you still thought of buying it in a store and we can move on. So, lay out all the tools around you. You can not try to follow the order or some kind of sequence - anyway, after half an hour of work, everything moves between them. Arrange the colors. Well, that's enough for today, you can go play with the child or do something else.

Chapter 4 - Assembling Again

Let's get back to building the model. Ask your wife where she did everything that you laid out on the table yesterday (or when it was), explain to her that these things need to be handled very carefully and that in order to rewrite a cake recipe from the Internet, it is not at all necessary to remove everything from table.

Look in your builder's toolbox for some model supplies (I think they should have been there), and set aside anything that seems relevant to building the model. It can be wire cuttings, pieces of plastic, a burnt transformer - everything can actually come in handy, so choose for yourself.

Return to the room and prepare the workspace again. Put the box with the model on the table, put the parts on the table and start studying the instructions. Do not anger your wife and go to eat, if you do not go too long - she will be offended. Arguments that you are busy with an important matter will not have any force, you will also have to come to terms with this. After lunch, wash your hands and try to get back to assembling the model. If you are distracted by something else, then postpone the assembly until the next free day.

Chapter 5 - Accuracy and Aftermarket Buying

So, you are back at your desk. Have you read the instructions? Now a very important point - based on the fact that you want to assemble a good model, you can say with a 100% guarantee that the parts that are in the kit are either inaccurate or poorly detailed. There are a lot of parts missing at all and you will have to buy additional detailing kits, such as a resin cockpit or photo-etched parts. Most likely, these kits will not be available in the model store and you will have to order them via the Internet. After you order them, turn on your computer and find as many photos of the original aircraft you are going to model as you can. Think about what components and details in your model are made incorrectly or missing at all.

As you go through the photos, you will have some questions that you will not find answers to and you will have to find some good modeling forum, register there and ask your questions. After that, while waiting for an answer, you can start browsing through all the topics in a row. Look at the clock - it's time for you to sleep. The next day, read what they told you, put the model aside and grab the second one you bought in the store.

Repeat the whole process from the second chapter up to this point. Now you need to wait for your order to arrive from the online store. But you have something to do: while reading the forum, you probably realized that you did not buy some very important tools, as well as an airbrush compressor. Take all the money set aside for the refrigerator and go to the store.

Make a list in advance, but you can not take it with you, anyway, you will need to look at all the counters and you will definitely remember everything. Buy everything you need and another model. You can go home. At home, repeat all the steps from the second chapter with the new model and hide it somewhere. Explain to your wife the need for a compressor and an airbrush, prove that an old refrigerator can be used without problems for several more years.

Chapter 6 - Assembly with the aftermarket

Did you get the package? Great! You can continue to collect the model! Consider a photo-etch kit, decide which of its parts can still be used, and which still have to be made by yourself. Everything, you can start. I will not delve into the assembly process itself in great detail - all its aspects have already been described more than once, and skills will come with practice. I, perhaps, will stop my attention only on the most important dogmas of modeling:

• Try not to lose the instructions - the thing is quite useful. If you still can't find it - start looking in the other boxes, then in the pile of magazines in the toilet - if this does not bring results, then you will have to spend a lot of time searching.
• Before assembly, do not forget to check how the model fits into the drawings. Even if the inconsistencies are negligible, and you understand that no one will notice this on the assembled model - still correct this drawback, no matter how much effort it costs you. After all, it does not matter whether the error will be noticeable if YOU know about it!
• When you cut off parts from the sprue (so, for fun) that you will need only at the 30th assembly step, still think about how easy it will be for you to identify this part in the future. If you are assembling a cockpit and understand that the external antennas are very similar to each other, after cutting them off, try to remember well which one was under which number.
• Try to detail the internal components and elements as detailed as possible. Do not worry about whether these nodes will be visible on the assembled model. Even if not, and in order to admire them again you will have to break the model - work hard! And what if someone someday still breaks it and sees emptiness inside! The only thing - do not forget to take a picture of everything before you hide it in the fuselage forever.
• If you had the imprudence to drop a part smaller than 30x30mm on the floor - do not try to find it - the probability of a positive search result is minimal - just spend the time you can start making this part by hand, the more homemade it will be better anyway. And when your wife brings the lost part in a week and asks: “dear, what kind of plastic did I find today under the refrigerator?” Thank her and put this part in a special box as a keepsake.
• If you don't like a handmade part even a little, remake it, no matter how much time you spend on it. Remember the main thing - YOU will know that this part is not as good as you would like.
• If during assembly you need to sand some part of the model (for example, after puttying) - do not be afraid to damage the jointing. Anyway, it is not correct and you will have to cut it completely!
• If you do not find the tool you need for work, remember: every tool (exactly every one) can be made from things that are in your home. The only thing - sometimes for this you have to spoil something else, but do not stop even if this other one costs more than the necessary tool - you don't have time!
• Don't be discouraged if something doesn't work out for you - the prefix "re-" is essential for modeling. So words like cut, repaint, re-paste should not scare you. On the contrary, it should mean that you are doing everything right and gradually become a real modeller!
• Try to develop a reflex in your cohabitants - not to interfere with you when you are assembling the model. If the reflex is not developed, try not to pay attention to what is happening around you - abstract.
• Your relatives should also remember that all the chemicals you use are NOT harmful to health. But nevertheless, use them in a ventilated area and do not let children into the room during use - just in case.
• If during the assembly you will face such a problem that you cannot overcome at the moment (for example, the lack of the necessary material or the ability to make some part) - put the model aside and start assembling another one.
• So that you do not face another problem - the lack of a model that can be collected, every time you go to the store for one can of paint, buy at the same time one or two new models.

Chapter 7 - Painting

So, your model is assembled and ready to be painted. Of course, you had to paint the internal nodes, I did not focus on this - you probably figured it out yourself from the instructions. The only thing I forgot to say is that manufacturers are very fond of confusing modellers and specifically indicate the wrong colors in the instructions. Therefore, before you paint anything, guided by the instructions, be sure to check the original color photo. Since you most likely won’t find the right photo, and even a color one, buy yourself a few books on the apparatus you are assembling and try to find information in them about what color this or that part could be painted on the model you are assembling.

If you do not find such information in the book, try to look for an eyewitness. In fact, there are quite a few ways to find out what color to paint, say, the back of the pilot's seat or any other part. But even if you fail, remember the main thing: in no case do not paint everything one-on-one, as indicated in the instructions!

Now start painting the model itself. First choose which coloration you want to reproduce. The instructions usually indicate several options, but this is not enough for a good color. Find a few more (5-10) on the Internet. Now you can choose. The choice should be to look for the option with the most difficult camouflage (even if it doesn't turn out to be the prettiest). Otherwise, everyone will think that you are looking for simple ways and no one among the modellers will respect you.

Apply a coat of primer to the model. Scratch the back of your head. While you are scratching, think to yourself: “I kind of puttyed it ... I sort of sanded it too ...”. Re-spackle and re-sand the model again. Prime again. This process can be repeated an infinite number of times. As well as the painting itself. The main thing is to learn how to remove the paint with which you paint. And go ahead, do not be afraid - the air in the compressor will not end, and paints, in general, are not so expensive. After you finally achieve the desired result of painting, put the airbrush in the drawer, put a large fingerprint on the model in the most visible place, remove the airbrush from the drawer and repeat all over again.

Repeated? I hope you don't repeat the fingerprint mistake and be more careful. Get to the decals. I think you already guessed that the decal that was sold to you with the model is wrong and bad. Order some suitable decals from well-known, expensive manufacturers, ruin some of the most difficult pictures, and make them yourself. Now the model needs to be given a realistic look. To do this, you will have to "spoil" the flawless result of your work with an airbrush - scrape, scratch, stain, wash off, because there are no clean, paint-free and scratch-free aircraft!

Conclusion

Well, here is your first high-quality model. Spend a few hours taking pictures and put the model in a prominent place. The only thing, in a conspicuous place, the model is subject to many risks - such as, say, dust or inaccurate movements of cohabitants. And, unfortunately, no matter how hard you tried on the model, it still cannot fly, and, touched by his wife, who is wiping dust on the shelf, it rapidly falls onto the parquet and shatters into small pieces there. Therefore, quickly rearrange the model from a prominent place to a safe place. Let her be hard to see there, but the model will live longer. Yes, and you collected it not in order to look at it, but for the sake of the assembly process itself. Well, have you found a safe place? That's all, you can take on the next model.

Afterword

Of course, in this article I have not described everything related to modeling, I have described very little, and with each model you will receive more and more new skills. And if you really have never assembled models, and this article turned out to be the first one you read, do not stop there, maybe you should read other, more serious articles, but I hope that the essence of modeling is now clear to you. And if you have already assembled more than one model and read this article just out of interest, while the fifth layer of paint dries on the assembled model, I hope I at least cheered you up a little.

Dopeless aka Rostislav Chernyakhovsky

In contact with